69 – Aggressive Behavior
This summer I've had several new cases of reactive behaviors in dogs. I find this area of training fascinating and challenging. Solving the problems always ends up being a game of putting together a jigsaw puzzle. What pieces are missing that will give me a whole picture? If a try this piece in this position and it doesn't work, where is the missing piece? Does the owner have the time, the patience, the willingness to learn the steps to complete the puzzle?
I'll begin by noting the fact that I am not a behaviorist. There are no behaviorists in our immediate area. Although anyone can call himself/herself an animal behaviorist, ethically, the term is reserved for those who have earned a graduate degree of Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (http://www.certifiedanimalbehaviorist.com/) or a veterinarian who has extended his/her education beyond the basic requirements for the DVM and/or passed the exam in behavior (look for ACVB as an indication of the required certification). When I encounter a case which I feel is beyond the scope of my knowledge, I will refer the owner to one of these highly qualified professionals. Nashville and Murfreesboro offer the closest behaviorists.
So where do I begin when an owner contacts me regarding aggressive behavior in his/her dog? I will insist on a trip to the veterinarian before we discuss anything else. If a dog is in pain or has a medical problem such as hypothyroidism, head trauma, seizures, or limited vision, the reactivity could be a result of this problem. To begin to work on changing aggression when there is a physical cause would be similar to asking someone with a cold not to sneeze. A good veterinarian will check for physical pain and run blood tests to rule out medical problems. Once cleared, we can begin work on changing the behavior.
After taking a full history and listening to the owner's description of the presenting problems, I ask about the food a dog is fed. It's amazing how much diet can affect behavior. Artificial colors, grains, corn, and food allergies can all contribute to behavior issues. Two sites that provide excellent information regarding canine nutrition are http://blog.fidofriendly.com/hot-topic/do-you-know-how-to-read-a-dog-food-label/ and http://www.dogaware.com/diet/index.html . Though the concept has not been proven through rigorous studies, I do suggest owners look at foods that are a bit lower in protein, in the 22% to 24% range.
So what happens next? Well, from a reality show perspective, it's pretty boring. No setting the dog up for failure by flooding with the stimulus which makes her react. No shocking the dog and having him redirect with a bite to the owner. No hanging the dog until he collapses from lack of oxygen only to pronounce he is “in a calm, submissive state.” In fact, the whole process becomes one of quiet, calm, small steps. It's why the really great behaviorists like Patricia McConnell, Pat Miller, and Ian Dunbar don't have television shows and rock star fame. For them, it's about working successfully with the dog, not massaging their own egos.
Most of the steps involve what is called “Desensitization and Counter Conditioning.” A dog is introduced to the provocative person or dog at a distance that does not push her over the threshold, avoiding an explosion of bad behavior. While she remains calm, the best treat in the world is introduced – which may or may not be food. As the dog begins to associate the “bad thing” with something wonderful, her emotion toward it begins to change. Think of me handing you a $100 bill each time you have to do something you dislike. You might begin to enjoy the task after just a few trials!
There are some new and ground-breaking protocols coming out for dealing with dogs with aggression problems. CAT, the Constructional Aggression Treatment, has been pioneered by Jesus Rosales-Ruiz and Kellie Snider from the University of North Texas. Highly controversial, it uses negative reinforcement, but does have the support of many reward-based trainers. Less intrusive, more positive, is BAT, Behavior Adjustment Training from Grisha Stewart and Ahimsa Dog Training in Seattle (http://ahimsadogtraining.com/blog/bat/ ) .
Two warnings I issue as mandatory: 1) aggression is never considered “cured” and 2) please do not punish a dog who is giving a warning signal such as a growl or snarl. It is the dog who has been punished for his reactivity that are far more dangerous. As Dr. Ian Dunbar states, punishing a growl is “the same as taking the ticker out of a time bomb.” You won't know it's about to go off. It's also important to remember that aggression begets aggression. For more on this, please see the article from DVM Magazine: http://tinyurl.com/cz2aan .
A dog who is reactive/aggressive can be a liability. It takes time and patience to work with him. It can be horribly frustrating as there are days when you take one step forward and two steps back. It is not a project for everyone and no one should feel guilty should he/she choose not to take on the work. For those of us who have, it has become a labor of love as well as a journey of discovery about communication, knowledge of other species, and insight into ourselves.